Monday 20 April 2009

Chanel 2009 Pre-Fall

PARIS-MOSCOU
This year's Metiers s'Art collection, "Paris-Moscou" has been dedicated to the capital of a country and a culture that fascinated Gabrielle Chanel. For the presentation, Karl Largerfeld chose the confidential Theatre Le Ranelagh in the sixteenth district of Paris. At the theatre's entrance, beautiful constructivist-style posters were hung up on the walls, announcing the show's arrival to the theatre. After the fashion event, the theatre was transformed into a Russian cabaret, complete with a Slavic orchestra and vodka, while Karl Lagerfeld conducted his interviews on the stage.


The key sillhouette of Métiers d'Art collection
For this season's Mé tiers d'Art collection, dedicated to the link between Paris and Moscow, Karl Lagerfeld was inspired by early 20th century Russian pictorial avant-garde. Virginie Viard, the Creative Studio Director at Chanel, and Karl Lagerfeld's right-hand woman, selected and decoded the details of a key silhouette from the collection, "this black taffeta dress plays with the contrast between geometrical beveled architecture and the delicacy of tulle frills. The magnificent embroidered piece, made by the Atelier Lesage (over 110 hoursof work) is directly inspired by Liobov Popova's painting, "Painterly Architectonics, 1918-19". On the shoulders, the black ottoman coat is cut at the waist for greater freedom of movement. Its volume is also a reminder of constructivist architecture. Th shearling shapka, made by the Maison Michel, is rimmed with bead fringes and a minutely detailed golden crown. I would say that this silhouette connects the two faces of Moscow: the splendor of a prestigious heritage and the boldness of the esthetic revolution." The painting that inspired the dress is part of the exhibition "Russian Avant-Grade in the Costakis collection" at the Musée Maillol in Paris, until March 2nd 2009.

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